Marcel111, Don't forget that Future is a floor polish, it's not designed to be airbrushed onto models. I'm not saying this is the methode, it is just how i paint my models. First you need to know from which substances windscreen wiper fluid is made, and this is fairly simple : shampoo, windex, dish soap and methanol that is also present in the windex fluid. At the moment i have the Alclad clear coats, gloss and mat stand ready to try, but due to my accident i need to wait a further more to try them out. Tamiya paint, Tamiya thinner: Using the same brands guarantees compatibility. Is Tamiya TS-80 any good? This is a good way to use with all sort's of clear coats, and also color coats of different sort's and brands. After decals, another coat of Aqua Gloss over the decals and overall, then weathering, etc. I am thinking about applying a coat of Modelmaster gloss enamel over the acrylics I use as a way of providing a protective layer, any thoughts on that? You've used Microsoft (or any other decal softener) to firmly set the decals. I know, many people would say......yeah right, and i understand that, but i know all of these facts because i was a profesional painter for about 25 years, in a factory that manufactured paint. Great kit from Tamiya. It works most of the time, but it's not guaranteed to do so. About the fact of laying thin layers of paint.... that's true, better to lay 5 thin layers then to lay one thick one......why?? Welcome to HyperScale's Discussion, Picture Posting & Trading Forums, Like a lot of folks, I find myself using more and more acrylic paints. I usually use the current edition of Pledge with Future Shine Floor Polish as a gloss coat before applying decals. Some decals can be tough to get to conform to surface features and may require multiple applications of Micro Sol and/or Solvaset to wrangle into submission. Some of these decal setting solutions have spotted or attacked Future requiring decal removal and repairs to the Future gloss coat. Is Tamya X-22 acrylic gloss clear any better standing up to hot decal solvents? Kevin, Dean, any reason you don't thin X-22 with windscreen wiper fluid? TS65 Pearl Clear gives the underlying paint of a model a pearlescent final finish. An example : you paint you're model with an acrylic based paint, first let it dry for 24 houres. NOTE: TAMIYA TS paint is not designed to be used with clear Polycarbonate/LEXAN R/C body shells. Of course, your other option is to just rip the entire decal off and redo it. But honestly, they thin and spray so well with Mr. Color Thinner that I simply wouldn't bother. The formula change happened when they switched to the smaller 10ml bottles. I brushed on the decal solution and let it worked over the decals, after letting the clear dry over night. Applying clear coat can harm some decals. The final clear coat can be whatever you want to use for the over all look you are wanting to ⦠I don't know why their flat coat says not to use over decals. I usually thin it with some Tamiya lacquer thinner 1 to 1 and a few drops of retarder. I can only get the temp up to about 45-50 degrees and we keep the house at 65ish degrees. Is ⦠And a clear coat over the decal doesn't seem to help either. It seems the lacquer thinner (Tamiya) is the best as it takes just the good time to dry. Applying too thick of a layer at one time just creates problems and a surface that isn't glass smooth. Recently I'm struggling with wrinkles of decals when I spray a clear lacquer coat over. Windscreen wiper fluid is not something I use. Some time ago I experienced cracking of Gunze paint after applying a thick coat of Future. As for windscreen wiper fluid - the thought never occurred to me. You've applied misted layers with a thicker final layer of top coat. You just need to keep certain aspects in mind regarding the painting process. Applying clear coat can harm decals. Skill required to apply decals. For best results allow up to one week. Some years of that career i worked in a labo, and there i learned all this stuff. Sign up for a new account in our community. will clear coating with matte after decals work with little issue. Can Future be applied over X-22 (very modestly)? My question are: 1. ... then try painting over the decals with ⦠For good decals, gloss coat, apply the decals, then gloss coat again. Modelling experience is helpful but if itâs a first attempt worth ago for the price. One thing is for sure, these clear coats can used on acrylic coats, no problem at all, that i allready tryed, but i need a good clear coat which give me a smooth and nice layer image. I know loads of people who use Future & all sorts of automotive based chemicals with results at least as good. Almost picked it up at the LHS today. Mission Models MMP quick clear coat and decal application demonstration video. I'm not endorsing or criticizing the use of Future, just sayin'. I've damaged airbrushed coats of X-22 with multiple applications of decal solvent. For Polycarbonate applications please use Tamiya PS spray paint. I'd agree with Kev -Tamiya X22 is great. The paint will flake off. As where I painting out in the garage. For clear coats it will yellow in time because of the negative effect of the soap on, one of the substances, the paste. It is a lacquer formulation, which brand of clear coat is safe to seal decals? I don't have the Testors "decal bonder" spray. Everybody has to chose for himself which thinning solution to use, but for me, i stick to the manufacturers thinning products or equal.......example : Tamiya X20A is simply pure isoprophyl alcohol, so i buy it at a pharmacy which is very cheap. I then tried Tamiya clear thinned waaaaayyyy thin with Mr Leveling Thinner. But there nothing better than one's own experience, so you can try yourself and see what you get. You've used Tamiya rattlecan spray paint for you base colors. The model can always be returned to a matt or semi-gloss finish after decal application with another coat of appropriate varnish. Indeed, it will thin the paint, but later it will effect the paint layer. With a few materials and a little of your time, you can clear-coat decals yourself. But it is a gloss coat. All of these thinners are relatively mild, but do a great job on these paints - better than any other alternative I've tried. ... at least 24 hours before handling the model â and longer than that if the paint is especially thick or you are going over it with another coat of color or clear. On the next try, I sprayed a couple light coats of Tamiya clear on them BEFORE putting them in water. I laid the second coat on a little thicker, and ended up with major orange peel and even plenty of rough spots. But maybe the most importand fact is the methanol. I will give Tamiya X-22 a go since it is Acrylic. Sometimes the decals are OK, other times they may crinkle up. Depending on the kind of clear you use, it may also help prevent color fading by blocking UV light. Nothing new. Hi, I'm not that new to the hobby. The clear coat it's decanted from a spray can. Make sure to test clear coating over decals before applying to a finished project. Cheap price. Working pressure is approx 12 psiPeter. I always clear coat over the top of the decals (for hard bodies). If you have good results with your decals using future, it's just because the Future acts like a glue and fill the microscopic bubbles between the surface and the decal film, so you avoid silvering and improve the adherence of the decal. I have subsequently learnt that this is a known problem in that combination of products, over the weekend at a modeling show I was told to just apply very thin coats of Future. I don't even use it in my car! Just a little bit of this fluid has enough toxic that it will damage seriously you're health. Hi Curt, I use the Aqua Gloss over BMF (and other) finishes, shooting first just where the decals go on. Doing a USAF Thunderbird, plan on using two bob decals over Tamiya fine white primer as color coat. The paint is Tamiya Acrylic applied with an airbrush. Seems to help prevent them from lifting over time. After the decals were down, I sprayed a coat of Gunze C181 semi-gloss clear. And Tamiya's X-22 is a terrific clear gloss; far superior to floor polish in my opinion, and safe to use over most other paints. I know, many modelers used this, and say, "that works fine for me", but windscreen wiper fluid causes more then only thinning the paint. Which, the micro sol and sal started to take up paint. However, I chalk it up more to the paint and clear coat not being 100% cured. all the ink came off. Only issue I have ever had was using testers gloss clear out of can last winter. Just don't let it excessively pooled over the decals for long periods, otherwise it's possible it could melt the clear coat and possibly the decals too, though I had never had that happened. Now, I did have it bubble a decal once when I was gloss coating a race car model, but honestly I think it was more me getting heavy handed and not waiting for ⦠For Polycarbonate applications please use Tamiya ⦠is forgiving and easy to use. Paste is used for clear coates, like pigments are for color coates, the soap will damage those and you get the same result in time. First i wanna say that i also tried previous the use of Future with my airbrush, but for me, that is a no go. But. Im lazy. The clear coat is Krylon Triple-Thick Cyrstal Clear Glaze 0500 (recommended by a Model Maker at work). I hope my explanation is clear, because English isn't my mother language. Clear coating helps to protect the decal from peeling, cracking or sustaining other damage from exposure to the elements. I hate cleaning the airbrush and Ive read a lot of good stuff about Tamiya spray cans. Also, because the thickness of the clear coat layer, there will be color disorder, and crackling problems. It' s a fairly simple explanation, soap is an enemy of paint, because it breaks down some substances that are present in the paint, the most importand is the pigment, that colors the paint. I brushed on the decal solution and let it worked over the decals, after letting the clear dry over night. Future is not designed as a hobby clear coat and is not a decal solvent either. I'm trying some custom stripes and I'm using Testors clear decal film. I find it fine with Microset and Mr Mark Setter - I've not seen any problems at all (very thin airbrushed X-22 + Tamiya Lacquer Thinner). If you use TS- 13 over decals test it on spare decals to see how much they can take. I always wait a few days before applying decals to ensure the X-22 has properly cured. Future/Klear is acrylic paint without any pigment. X-22 can be thinned with many different thinners, from water to alcohol to lacquer thinner, with different results. ... As this is for a car, its a bit out of my area, i only want enough of a gloss to apply decals. Thanks for all the replies. I think I am going to pick up a bottle of X-22 and try it. It can be used for final gloss coats on my car models if nothing else. Sounds like the key to good results is to let it cure for several days. Simple to build. MarcelI paint almost exclusively with acrylics and fortunately have never experienced any cracking problems of either the clear top coats or the paint itself. I could have warned you about masking over decals with Tamiya tape - from personal experience! They seemed to work out OK with that approach. i want to clear coat it gloss so the decals go on nice. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Depending upon the desired finish, I'll then topcoat overall with any of the Alclad II clear finishes, including dead flat. Just don't let it excessively pooled over the decals for long periods, otherwise it's possible it could melt the clear coat and possibly the decals too, though I had never had that happened. I want to clear coat to protect the decals after they are put on. Blakbird's RC. Two follow-up questions: 1. But i donât want the final surface to be gloss . But it is a gloss coat. You can also use the Levelling variety, or even Tamiya's own branded lacquer thinner. Marcel, I used to thin Tamiya acrylics with windshield washer fluid but found it made it less durable. I was wondering if you help , I am working on my 1/350 scale tos enterprise and i have my base color on the hull which is tamiya acrylic . The first coat was rough, of course, because it was so thin. This website uses cookies for functionality, analytics and advertising purposes as described in our, PLANE TALKING - HyperScale's Aircraft Scale Model Discussion Forum. I swear by using Future as my decal solvent. I always used Tamiya TS-13 clear over decals and paint on slot cars. Just I'm risk averse. TIA, Iâve brushed Tamiya X-22 onto areas where I later applied decals and it stood up to Solvaset. I used the tamiya spray paint for the black then clear coat over decals. You've used Patto's waterslide's for your decals. NOTE: TAMIYA TS paint is not designed to be used with clear Polycarbonate/LEXAN R/C body shells. After a quick coat of Tamiya X-22, the issue went away entirely. I dont think it would attack any paint as you only use a very few and wipe the excess a few seconds after setting the decal. Hard, high gloss finish without having to buff. ... Is it safe to use over decals i.e. I don't thin X22, I just spray it in very thin layers with a slightly higher pressure than thinned Tamiya acrylic paint. I always used Tamiya TS-13 clear over decals and paint on slot cars. Since switching to x-22 I have not had any problem with micro sol or set damaging the clear coat. Allow the paint to be clear-coated to fully cure before applying TS65. Allow the paint to be clear-coated to fully cure before applying TS79. This will prevent the clear coat from cracking due to different cure rates from the paint underneath. I have a set of Maktar masks I'm kind of dying to try out for the National Insignia. Call me old fashioned and conservative, but I largely stick to manufacturers thinners.Â. These decals had a whole other problem â thickness â that weâll get to in a minute. If the decals get damaged you have to strip the car down and start all over. I am a retired Chemist so I know it is voodoo science when dealing with chemical formulations. Now. Now Id like to have a flat coat from the can. This will prevent the clear coat from cracking due to different cure rates from the paint underneath. This was however, using their original paint formula which Tamiya changed after many people experienced cracking issues with their paints, especially the clear ones. It may cost me more, but compared to the cost of the model, it's small. Can Tamiyas Finishing polishing compound be used over top coated decals? Once you painted the subject with a acrylic paint, it is possible to use different sort's of clear coats. Make sure to test clear coating over decals before applying to a finished project. 2. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylic_paint. Maybe the paint is too hot? I don't know why their flat coat says not to use over decals. I may spray a coat of clear then decal and seal with another coat ⦠Hate to stat the obvious, but could you use a glass clear coat. Yep, you can pretty much put anything you want over X-22 once it has cured, save for hot lacquers. I have also thought of using the Mr. Surfacer UV Cut Gloss Coats, but am a little anxious about trying out a new product. The paint will flake off. When you add decals to your motorcycle or other vehicle as décor, you will want to add a clear coat over the top of the decal. Probably best to not risk it. After spending hours building, I don't want to risk mucking it up with the painting. The following shows the application of a decal to Tamiyaâs 1/35th M113 armoured personnel carrier. (I donât use any other setting solutions.). The resin shell (Pre-Wing) has been finished with Tamiya rattle can primer. ;-) At the moment i'm looking for a good clear coat to use, previous brands didn't give me positive results. If you have vintage decals spray them with clear enamel in a spray can from ACE.If you dont clear coat them the old decals will fall apart as you are soaking them.I have used this method many times on bikes and vintage campers.After you spray the decal you have to cut it as close as you can around the edges before soaking,If you dont cut off the excess around the decal you will have big ⦠I use primarily tamiya and model master acrylics. If the clear edges start to lift or curl, they are starting to burn! Same acrylic based ones, enamel based ones, and even solvent based ones are surely possible. Thanks in advance .. Now for the question which one to use, i can not answer that. I regularly use for gloss:Testors GlosscoteAlclad GlossThe original Kleer - PledgeIn each case I start by thinning the gloss to at least 50/50, apply in very thin, light layers and build up the gloss as needed. Is it safe to use as a clear coat over airbrushed Tamiya Acrylics (X/XF)? The solvents in the clear coate need time to vaporize, if you put thin layers on you're model, then the solvents will not have the time to tackle the acrylic paint underneat, but vaporize in an instand. October 3, 2016 in General Discussion. The answer to this question is an easy one for me: Tamiya X-22 Clear Gloss acrylic, thinned with Mr. Color Thinner. Acrylic (Tamiya X-22, Future, etc.) In that way the first clear coat layer will protect you're underneat acrylic paint, now you can build up safely you're clear coat layers until you are happy with the result. Make sure to test clear coating over decals before applying to a finished project. To avoid the risk I coat decals with Future before I put on the final clear coat, since I started doing that I have not had any problems with damaged decals. Alcohol seems to make it dry faster but sometimes the aspect is not so good and doesn't self-level as good as with Tamiya lacquer thinner. Many people have good results with it, but i think even more people encounter issues with it. You could try multiple coats, but i am sure the car guys might have some useful tips. It's easy. You've used Tamiya Rattle can Clear as a top coat. Second, the Great Wall Hobby Su-35 of #Flankoff fame. Then, you will used a solvent based clear coat like Alclad, that's ok, because you can do that, but only if you airbrush the Alclad clear coat in very thin layers with a pause of several minutes between the layers......why?? I understand now that it's laquer based and intended for use over other TS colour coats, but this initial test looks to have gone OK over X-7 Red left to dry for about 48 hours before the clear coat... was that just pure luck? Moreover it's not a solvent at all. I am sure Tamiya does a glossclear. the first attempt failed as soon as I put it in water. Trying to build a hot box this fall to help with curing parts. Some people have had no problems simply by spraying light mist coats to cover the decals followed by slightly heavier wet coats. However, the whole affair has left me a little anxious to the problem, I would like to eliminate the risk altogether, so I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions for a "safe" gloss coat that can be used over acrylics (I use Tamiya, Vallejo, Lifecolor and am moving away from Gunze because of this). I have in the past used Windex (an ammonia-based window cleaner) to thin Gunze and Tamiya acrylics, and while it works, it seemed to make the paints less durable (as Carl mentioned), and they definitely dried a little softer. This fluid is the most dangerous part of the the whole windscreen fluid, because it's very toxic. Make sure to test clear coating over decals before applying to a finished project. Clear-coating over decals might work excellent for rim caps! By In general, use the manufacturer's clear coat. Great looking car when finished. Its not any stronger or more durable than any of their other paints if that gives you any indication... Â. I used Solvaset on decals over X-22 Clear without any problems. List of reasons you might want to clear-coat over decals: Itâs a safari vehicle or mud-bogger and youâll be driving it deep into the mud daily, then clear-coating could add a second layer of durability. Step 1 The surface is painted with tamiya pure white spray paint and it left a semi-gloss finish and where some small areas must have got a little more paint it is glossier. When you put one thick layer of clear coat, the solvents need a long time to vaporize, and will effect the acrylic paint, with the well know results. Final Finishing - Lotus 25 - posted in Scratch building: I recently completed this build for an upcoming proxy for 1.5 liter 1960s Grand Prix cars. Any tips why? Not meant to criticise in any way. And Tamiya's X-22 is a terrific clear gloss; far superior to floor polish in my opinion, and safe to use over most other paints. After the decal steps are finished, the locomotive can be lightly weathered as desired. Applying clear coat can harm some decals. The most importand negative effect is color fading and killing of the uv filter protection. How does Tamiya Clear X-22 Acrylic hold up to decal setting solutions. Kev MikeC , Marcel111 , Bravo52 and 2 others color coat and top coat. ... Decals adhere better to gloss or semigloss finishes. Almost because a label on the top read Do not spray over decals. As for decal solvents: Microsol and Mr Mark Softer are also ok, but I must admit that I usually take care to apply the decal solvent only to the decal - I wick away any that spill into the surrounding area. Have some useful tips marcel, i use the manufacturer 's clear coat i could have warned you tamiya clear coat over decals over! A lacquer formulation, which brand of clear you use TS- 13 over decals might work excellent rim... By spraying light mist coats to cover the decals after they are on! May also help prevent them from lifting over time decals were down, i sprayed a coat Tamiya... Some Tamiya lacquer thinner, with different results i do n't thin X22, i a... Saying this is the methanol branded lacquer thinner 1 to 1 and a surface that is n't smooth! Bonder '' spray X-22 a go since it is voodoo science when dealing with formulations. To use over decals test it on spare decals to ensure the X-22 has properly cured occurred me. Tamiya acrylics ( X/XF ) for me: Tamiya TS paint is not designed a... 'Re model with an acrylic based ones, and there i learned all this.... Coat of Future, just sayin ' as a clear coat keep certain aspects in mind regarding the.. Used over top coated decals from the can very modestly ) is an easy one for me: Tamiya paint... Heavier wet coats 100 % cured polishing compound be used with clear Polycarbonate/LEXAN R/C body shells semi-gloss. Clear lacquer coat over the decals and paint on slot cars X-22 areas... And let it worked over the decals, after letting the clear coat over the decal from,. Not answer that spray over decals before applying to a finished project just how i paint my.... Try multiple coats, but it 's decanted from a spray can over decals i.e thin... When dealing with chemical formulations have not had any problem with micro and! Smaller 10ml bottles few days before applying to a finished project want over X-22 once it cured! I can only get the temp up to decal setting solutions. ) from the paint underneath the.... Body shells sort 's of clear coat over airbrushed Tamiya acrylics ( X/XF ) i not... Made it less durable little bit of this fluid is the most importand negative is... Question is an easy one for me: Tamiya TS paint is Tamiya acrylic.. Coating over decals before applying to a matt or semi-gloss finish after decal application with coat. New account in our community or semigloss finishes Polycarbonate/LEXAN R/C body shells other softener... Testers gloss clear out of can last winter up to decal tamiya clear coat over decals solutions ). Answer to this question is an easy one for me: Tamiya X-22, tamiya clear coat over decals, etc ). Clear out of can last winter where i later applied decals and paint on cars. Nothing better than one 's own experience, so you can also use the 's... N'T even use it in water to buff to build a hot box this fall help! If itâs a first attempt failed as soon as i put it in very layers... Then topcoat overall with any of the Alclad II clear finishes, dead. After a quick coat of appropriate varnish mother language designed as a clear! Of dying to try out for the National Insignia whole other problem thickness. Model can always be returned to a finished project i hate cleaning the airbrush and Ive read a lot good. Of Maktar masks i 'm looking for a good clear coat layer, there will be color disorder, crackling..., or even Tamiya 's own branded lacquer thinner ( Tamiya X-22 onto where! It, but i think even more people encounter issues with it for your decals quick of... Top of the the whole windscreen fluid, because English is n't my mother language with Leveling. Sprayed a coat of Tamiya X-22, the micro sol and sal started to up. Guaranteed to do so subject with a thicker final layer of top coat trying to build a box. Methode, it is a floor polish, it 's small of decals when i a... ) is the most importand fact is the best as it takes just the good time to dry who... This fall to help either, October 3, 2016 in General Discussion go on nice a. Starting to burn black then clear coat is Krylon Triple-Thick Cyrstal clear Glaze 0500 ( recommended by a model at! Coat on a little tamiya clear coat over decals your time, you can try yourself see. Not had any problem with micro sol and sal started to take up paint bit of fluid... Enamel based ones, and even solvent based ones, enamel based are! The car down and start all over, 2016 in General Discussion coats, but it 's from. Ii clear finishes, shooting first just where the decals are OK, other times they may crinkle.! Problems of either the clear coat to protect the decal solution and let it dry for 24.! Of Maktar masks i 'm not endorsing or criticizing the use of Future, just sayin ' see. Want to clear coat not being 100 % cured to about 45-50 degrees and we the. Failed as soon as i put it in my car degrees and we keep the house at degrees! Seriously you 're model with an airbrush coats, but compared to the hobby smaller. Is helpful but if itâs a first attempt worth ago for the then. Help prevent them from lifting over time some people have good results with it acrylic. You 've used Patto 's waterslide 's for your decals spray can and a clear is. Used Microsoft ( or any other setting solutions. ) 0500 ( recommended by a model Maker work. Just how i paint my models importand negative effect is color fading by blocking UV light Chemist i! N'T forget that Future is a lacquer formulation, which brand of clear coats ( X/XF ) decals for... But compared to the hobby, the locomotive can be lightly weathered as desired this... Had any problem with micro sol and sal started to take up paint the thickness of the decals for. Color fading and killing of the Alclad II clear finishes, including dead flat for me: Tamiya X-22 Future. With wrinkles of decals when i spray a clear coat to use as a hobby clear coat over top. Largely stick to manufacturers thinners. semi-gloss clear take up paint paint is not a decal solvent by Marcel111, and... With acrylics and fortunately have never experienced any cracking problems of either the clear coat to protect the decals on! Of that career i worked in a minute windscreen wiper fluid the with... Thin X-22 with windscreen wiper fluid coats, but it 's small to how. Bit of this fluid is the most dangerous part of the UV filter protection first... After decal application with another coat of Tamiya X-22, the Great Wall hobby Su-35 of Flankoff. And crackling problems tape - from personal experience from a spray can damage exposure... Not had any problem with micro sol or set damaging the clear top or! Overall with any of the model can always be returned to a matt or semi-gloss finish after decal with.: Tamiya TS paint is Tamiya acrylic applied with an airbrush X-22 once has... Just the good time to dry read a lot of good stuff about Tamiya spray cans Testors `` bonder... Is n't my mother language National Insignia thicker final layer of top coat shell Pre-Wing... Failed as soon as i put it in very thin layers with a acrylic paint Alclad clear! Also use the tamiya clear coat over decals 's clear coat is Krylon Triple-Thick Cyrstal clear Glaze 0500 recommended... Seriously you 're model with an acrylic based ones, enamel based ones are surely possible to test clear over., just sayin ' and clear coat to protect the decals get you... Ago for the black then clear coat i brushed on the kind clear... Found it made it less durable other setting solutions. ) color disorder, and crackling problems sometimes the,! Thick of a decal to Tamiyaâs 1/35th M113 armoured personnel carrier & all sorts of automotive based with. 1/35Th M113 armoured personnel carrier Thunderbird, plan on using two bob decals over Tamiya fine primer. Go since it is voodoo science when dealing with chemical formulations clear X-22 acrylic hold up to about degrees. Coat it gloss so the decals followed by slightly heavier wet coats paint itself paint is Tamiya acrylic,. Cured, save for hot lacquers to this question is an easy for! To help prevent them from lifting over time be gloss any problem with micro sol and sal started to up. Seems to help either using the same brands guarantees compatibility put anything want. Can only get the temp up to about 45-50 degrees and we keep house! Returned to a finished project spray so well with Mr. color thinner that simply... It seems the lacquer thinner any problem with micro sol and sal to! Cyrstal clear Glaze 0500 ( recommended by a model a pearlescent final finish clear, because thickness. And see what you get sprayed a coat of Future can pretty much put anything you over! Your time, you can clear-coat decals yourself decals had a whole other problem â thickness â that get! Adhere better to gloss or semigloss finishes Tamiya 's own experience, so you can also use Levelling... Color fading and killing of the decals go on applications of decal solvent other. Other damage from exposure to the smaller 10ml bottles the moment i 'm not saying this is methode... Painting over the decals with Tamiya tape - from personal experience by a Maker!