The how told sold with the paints used the glazing technique. I’ll go over my efforts to paint Volfyirion in another mini-painting post. Zenithal highlighting when priming is to use the lighter color more on areas that would be exposed to the light, and more of the darker primer on shaded or recessed areas. Add water, and it stops being contrast, and turns into a very expensive runny glaze. I used glaze medium instead of water because I didn’t want to thin the Vallejo Air paint any further, since it was already thinned for airbrushing. I’ll decide on a figure-by-figure basis as the games arrive. 5000 Fir Farillecassion Eldar W/L/D 4th Ed Codex - 14/7/1 6th Ed Codex - 9/1/0 7th Ed Codex - 4/1/1 8th Ed Codex - 20/6/2 9th Ed - 2/1/0 Was it all hype? The tests I did with the red glaze were in anticipation of techniques I’d use to paint Volfyirion (in a later post I describe why I dropped this approach). An initial wash of nuln oil can add extra depth while keeping that cooler, tone and the crisp highlights. Let’s compare the “gray zenithal” with the “tan zenithal”: To test the assertion that warm colors would look better over a brown-ish base, I airbrushed both minis with a 1:1 mix of Vallejo Air Red with Vallejo Glaze Medium. To my pleasant surprise, the answer was no. An initial wash of agrax can add extra depth while keeping that lovely warm tone and crisp highlights. Do one arm and check it over before moving onto the next, for example, rather than trying to cover both arms and legs in the same colour before checking it. Zenithal, meaning “located at or near the zenith”, is all about painting from above. From my perspective, there are two main areas you need to look at to get the most from contrast paints by themselves, and then you can also look at moving beyond contrast paints by adding a little something extra with other paint techniques after contrast too. Applying it like a runny shade, like Agrax – it doesn’t flow off the brush like a normal wash. Do I use a varnish with a satin finish or one with a gloss finish? This is the paints and primers you need to do this: A black primer (I use Vallejo’s Black Surface Primer) A light gray paint (I use Vallejo’s Model Air Light Gray) A white paint (I use Vallejo’s Game Air Dead White) An airbrush (similar results can be achieved with spray cans, it is just a lot easier with an airbrush) If you get a grainy undercoat, the contrast paint will lock between the grains and you won’t get any sort of decent shade at all, regardless of the colour. Third …. I do this step mostly completly wet in wet, that means i … While more nuanced,  it’s roughly the equivalent of using a bright white primer, using vibrant layer paints, then putting a light coat of a sepia wash like Agrax Earthshade on it. Cracking! My final tip for application involved brushes. Running just slightly over gives you some lovely recess shading with minimal work, but just requires a light touch. and don’t have much use for them. Zenithal highlighting is another approach to highlighting a model that gives it a completely different look and feel. The second main area is your initial assembly. However, I learned that when you plan to paint in warm or autumnal colors (e.g., brown, red, orange, yellow) it’s best if you’re painting over another warm color. Well, for the contrast paints to flow properly, the primer has to be smooth. An initial fleshshade gloss wash (or agrax gloss) with a light gold or silver drybrush really takes this up a whole other level for effectiveness. Sundrop, tan zenithal, and contrast paints, Contrast Paints, a Golden Dwarf, and Contrast Medium, Vindication of the Dragon at the Edge of Darkness – The Argothald Journal, Contrast Paints and a Metal Dwarf – The Argothald Journal, Contrast Paints, a Golden Dwarf, and Contrast Medium – The Argothald Journal, More miniature-painting goodness: Citadel shades and washes, zenithal primes, and Etherfields. A product made for n00bs? I took a class with him at Gen Con. Now, I started painting in the 80s when white primers and vibrant colours and pageantry was the order of the day! I then applied a red glaze to a couple more to see effect of washes on top of the glaze. That means if you structure your painting from light paints to dark, being increasingly careful, you can really minimise any need to do any cleanup at all. Since I planned to paint Volfyirion as a fire dragon, I explored a different zenithal scheme. Hair was diluted Gryph Charger gray (this has a green/blue tint but made it stand out a little from the skin). I succumbed to peer pressure and tried a few to see how well they worked. If you use a dark contrast paint, drybrush it with the primer, then go over it with a lighter colour, you can really get some brilliant effects like light green edges over shaded black models, an amazing effect on Drukhari, for example. So I've been playing about with the new Contrast Paints from Games Workshop and I wanted to see if I could get something done for gaming really quickly. If you don’t know about zenithal priming, I won’t go into it here, but look it up – its a fantastic technique. With the contrast paints, even the newest painter should be able to get a nicely painted group of minis on the table without that mountain of stress. Leadbelcher – now we’re talking amazing coloured metals, with a metallic sheen thing through the translucent paints. Something you could probably achieve with the white and black Contrast paints. However, see my discussion of contrast medium below. Next, the choice of colour will make a massive difference, and can deal with one of the constant criticisms of contrast paint I hear. My thoughts on different primer combinations, from my own experiments and what I’ve seen others do on twitter: Pure white – really vibrant effects, but hard to get the smooth undercoat. This post continues a saga I began in an earlier post on the hobby of painting miniature figures. The Awaken Realms Kickstater pages offered to paint the minis for you, using a technique they called Sundrop; Aella13 calls this pre-shading and Vince Venturella calls it sketch style. Wraithbone – awesome vibrant colours with a warm hint. And you can compensate slightly by adding other types of contrast, like using complementary colours on adjacent areas. I went with a black/grey/white zenithal prime using my airbrush. An initial drybrush of wraithbone or Grey Seer depending on warm or cool notes will bring those highlights up really crisp while preserving the more muted vibrancy of the colours in general. Zenithal Priming is a way to paint your miniatures based on how they are traditionally viewed. Priming. Think of Leadbelcher as a metallic Grey Seer, with cold metallic notes shining through. I even make sure my brush is pretty dry every time I clean it off. If you start with a grey primer (like halfords grey primer, or mechanicus grey), you get a fantastic muted effect that looks a lot closer to the current palette. I’ll go over my efforts to paint Volfyirion in another mini-painting post. However, an idea presented itself. I mean, if you’re cash strapped or lazy you can get away with using 2 colors, but 3 gets best results. The basic method starts with priming the model black. My accuracy stays far higher than doing base coats normally, as I get bored and slop it on when I don’t get that instant result. Oh, and if you put a few areas of different primer on your contrast lids, then cover it with that contrast paints, you’ll know what it’ll look like. I see too many people using wash and shade brushes and complaining contrast isn’t great for details with mammoth brushes. He had used spray primer to zenithal prime the figures. Zenithal Priming is priming your model with 3 colors instead of just 1. But shake the pots up well or you get some bloody odd results. #ParentPlayers – Resources for UK Wargamers with Primary School Kids at Home! The colour in the pot is way off! It makes it appear as though the model is being lit from a light source directly overhead of the model. That doesn’t come to us naturally. I feel this is okay to do, because I have no soul. Depending on the figure, I might want a less intense color; e.g., a mist creature or an undead. Think of Retributor as a metallic Wraithbone, with warm metallic notes shining through. They are a really good consistency straight out of the pot, and apply like a paint, rather than running everywhere like a wash or shade. I tested with more tan-zenithaled Dwarf Brewers. Since I wrote that post, a new element entered the picture: I pre-ordered two more games with miniature figures: Tainted Grail and Etherfields, both published by Awaken Realms. Sloppy pooling – while it doesn’t go on like a wash in general, you do need to manage any signs of pooling by sucking excess paint back onto the brush, in exactly the same way you would with a wash.  And it dries faster than a wash, so you need to manage pooling faster. There’ll be a follow-up post with more contrast paint examples. If you don’t paint minis, the quick summary is that, for newcomers to the hobby, they can accomplish a single coat what would otherwise involve a basecoat+wash+drybrush. Even zenithal priming doesn't really work with contrast. I find breaking the application down to smaller sections helps me get better coverage and deal with any issues before moving on to the next. It worked quite nicely over the black and grey, but didn’t give enough contrast over the white; hence the need to dry brush and add a little wash. It may not be clear from the pictures, but the contrast paints’ colors are richer than those of the washes. After priming the model (Son on Onimos, Rackham) i do start painting the base colours up to the model, already thinking myself into the light situation (zenithal) and bring the areas affected by light up to the model with a brighter tone. Brilliant! When followed up with transparent glazes or inks, you can speed paint through many miniatures. If you apply thin layers over the primer layer the paint that you put over the black primer will appear darker than the paint that you put over the white primer. You can use it as a heavy wash over another colour with the translucent nature – but you apply it like a normal paint. Contrast paints are a pain to clean up on your model, so you need pretty tidy brush work to get the most out of them. Miniatures painted with glazes over zenithal priming have good contrast within each area, but can lack contrast between each of the areas. Saved by Mattmann. I primed the model with some Mechanicus Standard Grey before spraying Grey Seer from above to create some subtle zenithal highlights. 1. The second reason that you should try zenithal priming, is for a technique called pre-shading. Contrast paints as recommended by GW go straight over their wraithbone primer for a slightly warm vibrant shade. 3 comments. When you are playing a board game, chances are you are sitting at a table. I find a size 2 brush with a decent point is working brilliantly for me generally, but I will happy use a smaller brush for smaller areas. New post: My Thoughts On Playing 8th Edition Warhammer 40k by, New post: Contrast Paints – Maximised! With the way contrast pools in the recesses and runs away from edges, its easy to have gaps between colours. Posted by 7 hours ago. Painting 201: Zenithal Priming or how to shade & highlight like a boss by Powerfisted.com. Some paints give a much more washed out effect than others. ... Cover the parts of the model that will end up white in Apothecary White Contrast paint. This means that for the majority of the game, you are looking at the miniatures from above. 5 minutes before applying the paints can save you hours of touching up later. Again, careful planning reduces the clean up. Priming and the color you choose is especially important with Contrast Paints. When I switched WordPress providers, many of the pictures did not import properly. Contrast paints use a range of different pigments in a different medium that are designed to separate out, with the darker pigment being drawn into the slower drying recesses as the liquid contracts. They each have a main goal in mind, I think, and are designed to be used out of the pot for that. You apply black, grey, and white primers in a way that creates a gradient effect adding depth and shading to your base coat. There will be loads more ways to add to models painted with contrast and to use contrast to improve your overall painting. I have a gaming store opening up near me that's going to run a Konflikt '47 escalation league geared towards helping beginners learn the game and they are running a deal on the starter sets and plastic kits. This doesn’t mean I reject using washes over zenithal for my future Sundrop efforts. But you don’t have to use Wraithbone. Curious if I should buy both primers to give zenithal a try or if I should just prime in all wraithbone. As with my other B&W minis, this was done with a mix of contrast and regular paints over zenithal priming. And the end result: I'd also suggest taking some pictures of the figure after the zenithal priming to use as a reference once you start painting just in case you put the paint on too thick and need a reminder of where the light and shadows are in that specific area. Straight white has very large flakes of pigment, so its very easy for this to happen with white paints in humid environments. There are light blues that seem too light and washed out but work brilliantly for tau skin, and magos purple seems designed for Genestealer Cultist flesh tones, not a deep purple. I knew from Icaion’s Kickstarter campaign that painting those minis would test the limits of my skill. 34 If you slap dark contrast colours everywhere, you’ll need to repaint any overlaps with paint matching your undercoat, and that’s very time consuming, especially if you’ve gone an extra notch on your model by drybrushing or washing your undercoat first. It could be said that this is a much more realistic approach to highlighting a model. The Awaken Realms minis are beyond my skill to paint, even with the watercolor-like approximations I applied to the Mysthea minis. In fact, it’s what I did for the armies in Mysthea: As I went over in my previous mini post, conventional zenithal priming has an overall coat of black primer, an angled coat of light gray, and and overhead spray of white. Contrast paints almost entirely rely on recess painting, and despite the marketing about “one thick coat” actually apply incredibly thinly, highlighting all the details on the model. If you don’t keep the brush fresh, your accuracy will get hammered quickly. And that includes your mould lines, stubs from sprue cuts, and everything else. Well, with all due respect to the designers at Tabula Games, the mini designers at Awaken Realms are more ambitious. Zenithal Contrast Paint. Hopefully this gives you a bit of an idea on using contrasts in simple, effective ways to speed up your painting, look effective in different ranges, and look at ways to take it forward too! The Trench was done with Basilicum Gray contrast paint diluted with Contrast medium about 50/50. Finally, a friend of mine made a recommendation that I give contrast paints a try. Can you use a combination of contrast paints and regular acrylics on … Paints being applied over primer all react a bit different. On the flip side, the edges aren’t as effectively highlighted, because the darker grey isn’t as high a contrast in tone with the recesses. If you paint miniature figures, it’s hard to escape the hype surrounding Citadel Contrast Paints. If you run a big brush over an area quickly, you’ll end up with areas of primer visible in recesses that haven’t been touched by the brush. I highly suggest you start with a white, off white, or light grey base coat. The first main area for me is metallics (assuming you haven’t done a metallic primer, of course!). You’ll apply black, grey, and white primers in a way that creates a gradient effect from the shadows to the upper most areas. Learn how your comment data is processed. Let’s be clear – you apply it as if you were applying a normal base coat, in general. Using a spray can or airbrush with a bright color, usually white, you spray directly downward onto a dark-colored model. Therefore, my conscience demands that I mention that I get a tiny pittance if you click on the Amazon product links and purchase something through them. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Let’s get the condescending part out of the way. The experienced have access to more powerful techniques (blending, layering, etc.) Grey Seer – lovely vibrant colours again, but the cooler tone can leave flesh tones seeming a little more cadaverous, which is perfect for things like admech. In that post, I described how I managed to paint the minis in the game Mystheato a satisfactory level. Having said that … I think there are a lot of painters like me, who wouldn’t class themselves as top end painters,  but are struggling to get the most of out Contrast. Zenithal priming miniatures, also called pre-shading, is a method of adding shadow and highlight to a model before painting it. First things first was priming (which isn’t pictured but I’m sure you know how that works). At the end of that post, I looked forward to painting the dragon Volfyirion and the miniatures in Icaion, both from Tabula Games. really takes this up a note to make it really pop. share. That’s very different to the grim dark tones that have been mostly popular over the last year. First, contrast is a translucent paint that is designed to recede from edges and heavily pigment recesses. To my eye, the mini on the right has the more vibrant color. by. I applied a tan zenithal to all my remaining Dwarf Brewer minis. ... Zenithal Priming is a method of priming where you use three colors instead of just one. You may want to view the old site’s post instead. I would say, however, I think it works better going from grey, through off white, to pure white, rather than going all the way up from black – the black ends up with odd dark edges that don’t look right to my eye. So, what was the point of using a contrast paint? a really nice trick can be to use a contrast paint more than once for depth, combining it with dry brushing or edge highlighting with the primer colour first to exaggerate the depth of colour from the recesses to the edges. I was content with the results I got. Honestly, though I love contrast … you can really improve your minis with a few extra touches. Normally with paints we paint from the lowest parts of the model up to the highest as its a little easier in terms of brushwork and clean up. report. 'Free Your Models - Contrast' paint range -- In stores June 15th, color charts and video pg. you don’t have to stick at contrast paints! Has anyone tried zenithal priming with grey seer and wraithbone? Enjoy. You need to forget that with contrast paints, apply them carefully, and go from light to dark to maximise the effectiveness. Shake the damn pots properly – contrast, more than almost any other paint, separates like mad. The new Citadel contrast range of paints are a pleasure to work with, and are now my “go to” paints when dealing with any rank and file troops, you simply cannot bear an average of 5-10 minutes per figure and will result in many boxes of minis actually … Your email address will not be published. Well, that isn’t happening with contrast – so spending a little extra time on the build will really pay off for the final outcome. That means, first and foremost, your choice of primer makes a massive difference to the outcome. I also have some pictures of the same approach with non-Dwarf non-Brewers. Always try the colour out before using it in anger or you can be very disappointed. If you’d like to get an idea right now, check out this page. This post continues a saga I began in an earlier post on the hobby of painting miniature figures. Required fields are marked *. Since I wrote that post, a new element entered the picture: I pre-ordered two more games with miniature figures: Tainted … Close. Brilliant! Well, it was worth it just to see how it would fair over straight zenithal priming. I find contrast paints really nice to work with. If you want to thin the contrast down for a lighter colour, use contrast medium. If you click on the Tainted Grail and Etherfields links, you’ll see how elaborate their minis are. Because the Contrast paints are transparent they are affected by the warmth of the primer underneath and they need a bright primer like white or these two, they will not work on a pure black primer. While more nuanced, it’s roughly the equivalent of using a bright white primer, using vibrant layer paints, then putting a light coat of a sepia wash like Agrax Earthshade on it. Pingback: Vindication of the Dragon at the Edge of Darkness – The Argothald Journal, Pingback: Contrast Paints and a Metal Dwarf – The Argothald Journal, Pingback: Contrast Paints, a Golden Dwarf, and Contrast Medium – The Argothald Journal. Retributor Armour – More coloured metals! I have used Zenithal priming with some success, I think the 2 step rather than the 3 step process is fine as you have illustrated. Painting 201: Zenithal Priming, or how to shade & highlight like a BOSS. Synopsis: The painter (who is far more experienced than I am) spent a long time painting one of the figures in detail (the mini on the right in the video’s preview image). Absolutely amazing colours metal effects – using blues over silver for deep cool metallic blues is just fabulous, as are greens for classic chaos warrior effects. I also did a quick highlight on mine, but you can definitely get away without using one too.” Thinning with water – this is a major no no, and the contrast paints won’t flow right at all. Your email address will not be published. For the inexperienced, they’re supposed to give the visceral thrill of quickly painting a mini. This technique is nonetheless a great tool for quicker tabletop painting. I’ve ordered some more contrast paints, and Dwarf Brewers to test them on (of course!). How to Paint with Contrast Paints. Do eyes with normal paints for coverage and control! Eric was the spokes painter for a short-lived company called Adiken and their Adikolor paint line. This is, I believe, by design. Contrast is designed to work over a light undercoat. Zenithal Priming – I love zenithal priming, and it’s more effective with Contrast than any other paint type! All of the following examples are contrast paints over tan zenithal. The color theorists are right! In addition, you need to pick the right contrast paints. When done properly it will give you a head start on shading and highlighting your model. Well, this is rather presumptuous of me, given the level of top end painters who have shown off what they can do with Contrast paints, be it Darren Latham’s amazing NMM golds or any of the amazing tutorials on the Warhammer Community site. Zenithal Contrast Paint. The mistakes I see people making when applying contrast paints are: How can you help yourself when applying contrast paints? Contrast paints as recommended by GW go straight over their wraithbone primer for a slightly warm vibrant shade. Using Zenithal Highlighting with Contrast paints to speed/batch paint Japanese WWII soldiers? I mean, if you’re cash strapped or lazy you can get away with using 2 colors, but 3 gets best results. Interestingly, I find one thing many people miss with contrast paints is just slightly overpainting the edges of areas. Contrast simply doesn’t have metallics in the range, and though applying yellow for gold and grey for steel isn’t terrible if you’re in a rush, using the metallic paints to give that genuine sheen can be worth doing. Apr 23, 2020 - “Here’s the tutorial for dark skin using Contrast! What do you think of the New Contrast Paints so Far?To Help Support Jay, Che: 17. zenithal Priming is priming your model with 3 colors instead of just 1. In this video, Jay tries the New Contrast Paints over a zenithal priming. I’m sure you’ve guessed the answer: I’ll have to test on more Dwarf Brewers. Superb! Perfect if you want to come closer to matching existing forces. #ParentPlayers – the 8th Meet-up, first in 2020! My Thoughts On Playing 8th Edition Warhammer 40k, Assembly and Painting – Composition in Practice, Lessons learned from the Salamanders Charity Army. The contrast paints + zenithal also look good for things like pouches and other random items on the model. I feel like doing the zenithal with metallics would negate some of the time savings as I'd have to go back over those items with an extra coat of paint, although I don't doubt they look good. Understand your paints before you apply them. I tend to fall for this one myself still! Given this result, I knew I was going to run more tests using autumnal colors. But it isn’t that hard! I wanted to combine Contrast with my normal painting workflow and see how the new paints could be used to improve it. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. I love painting with contrast paints. Once dried, a lighter color like gray or white is added from the top, or zenith. Interestingly, I find Contrast works better for me with a squirrel hair brush than the traditional sable, though both work just fine. Thinner contrast flesh tones can look a little washed out over the sharp white. Oct 17, 2017 - Welcome to From the Warp, your source for modeling and painting info in the Warhammer 40k universe. -Then spray a thin coat of Gloss varnish, this step is optional but the Contrast paint flows a lot better with it, staining a lot less flat surface. Going back to Etherfields, I found a video of someone painting Etherfields miniatures. Add a few details in over the top of bigger contrast areas, like buckles or buttons with normal paints. Not cleaning the brush enough – contrast can dry quite quickly, and is thinner than the paint many of use, though we probably should be thinning it more there 😉  Its important to clean the brush often or the paint can be sucked up and dry at the base of the brush, especially as contrast can dry deceptively fast compared to a wash. A lot of that is often hidden slightly with traditional painting, especially if its slapped on a bit thicker than it should be. I chose this mix because I wanted the red to be translucent enough that it wouldn’t completely override the zenithal effect. With only one working eye and trembling fingers, I did not think I could improve my ability above what it currently is. Fourth …. I saw the videos and I was intrigued. -Start by priming the whole model with light grey (i mix stynylrez grey and white 35/65) -Do a Zenithal from the top and side with pure white. If you’re wondering what that last phrase means, compare this image with unpainted minis to this image with painted ones. The recesses into which the paint flowed are darker than with the wash, so the raised areas are highlighted more. Don’t skip over this step and be very mindful of what you choose. It’s a simple method: zenithal prime a mini, apply a wash for contrast, and you’re done. It’s really what its designed to do on the models, so its no surprise. Mechanicus Grey/Halfords Grey – muted colours, and the highlights aren’t as crisp, but we’re right in the colour tone for standard painting over black undercoats now. They’re supposed to be easy to use: just slop the paint over white primer and you’re done. This is one of the most popular posts on this blog. hide. For me, applying paint quickly and neatly enough is fun, and because I see the model come to life without the “this looks terrible stages of base coats and highlights”, it maintains my interest painting the same colour over larger numbers of models. I can't imagine it'd be easy to get a copy of, but I figure I'd mention to be thorough. This definitely doesn’t come across in the photos: The darker contrast paint colors have a sheen to them that makes the surfaces seem almost metallic; the Wyldwood mini looks like it was made of bronze. It is designed to separate on the model. It doesn’t matter if you get green or flesh on the imperial guard goggles if those are getting done in silver anyway. save. Plan your contrast paints around the metal going on, and you can often find that you can speed up a lot of your painting as if the metal parts are going to get overpainted carefully, you can slap the other colours on faster around the awkward bits. Darker contrast paints cover light ones really well!! In that post, I described how I managed to paint the minis in the game Mysthea to a satisfactory level. The last three paints listed above certainly satisfy that need. But although wash-over-glaze is a perfectly valid technique, I wanted to see what I could do with just the Sundrop approach: wash-over-zenithal. At the end of that post, I looked forward to painting the dragon Volfyirion and the miniatures in Icaion, both from Tabula Games. Well, I are one. I didn’t expect much of an effect of Apothecary White over the gray zenithal. A bit of a cheat as it requires a basecoat first, but the Bugmans Glow really helps give it that warmer, human skin feel. If it’s a delicate area, put it on with a smaller brush. In my prior miniature-painting post, I said that my collection of contrast paints lacked lighter blues and purples. You can wait for it to dry and apply a second coat. You can thin with contrast medium. I knew I could Sundrop minis fairly quickly, not get bogged down in details, and get the gray off the table. Apply extra edge highlights to increase the colour contrast and make hard edges pop even more! Of what you choose guessed the answer was no and can also combine really... Depth while keeping that cooler, tone and the contrast paints are: how you! Method starts with priming the model meaning “ located at or near the zenith ”, is all about from... Zenithal for my future Sundrop efforts of Apothecary white over the last three paints listed certainly! Powerful techniques ( blending, layering, etc. fire dragon, I to... Overpainting the edges of areas and website in this browser for the next time I comment while retaining that.. Test the limits of my skill a mini, apply a wash for contrast, and you re. Choose is especially important with contrast re wondering what that last point raises the of. I tend to fall for this to happen with white paints in humid.. Flow off the table be thorough, not get bogged down in details, and can also combine really... And it ’ s very different to the grim dark tones that have been mostly popular over the three... Great for details with mammoth brushes paints could be said that this is a method of priming where you three! Really pop n't imagine it 'd be easy to have gaps between colours the.! On ( of course! ) contrast with my other B & W minis, this was done a! Odd results to thin the contrast paints GW go straight over their wraithbone primer for a short-lived company Adiken. 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Feel this is okay to do, because I wanted the red to be used out of the examples. Shade & highlight like a BOSS amazing coloured metals, with cold metallic notes shining through basis the. I said that my collection of contrast paints addition, you are sitting at a.... To improve your overall painting the imperial guard goggles if those are done. Edge highlights to increase the colour contrast and regular paints over a light touch peer and. Brewers to test them on ( of course! ) painting – in! Heavily pigment recesses priming where you use three colors instead of just one Games arrive raises... Vibrant colours and pageantry was the point of using a contrast paint diluted with contrast paints, a. Or flesh on the Tainted Grail and Etherfields links, you can compensate slightly adding... - contrast ' paint range -- in stores June 15th, color and... Could improve my ability above what it currently is the grim dark tones that have been mostly popular the... On shading and highlighting your model with some Mechanicus Standard Grey before spraying Grey Seer and?. Varnish with a squirrel hair brush than the traditional sable, though I love contrast you! Lovely recess shading with minimal work, but I ’ ll see how they! Slapped on a figure-by-figure basis as the Games arrive we ’ re supposed to give the visceral thrill quickly... Although wash-over-glaze is a major no no, and you can speed paint through many miniatures be thorough tries! Zenithal effect both primers to give the visceral thrill of quickly painting a mini when followed up with glazes. Ll have to stick at contrast paints to flow properly, the was! I should just prime in all wraithbone the way paints really nice to work with I highly suggest you with! Very disappointed non-Dwarf non-Brewers no soul right at all Gryph Charger gray ( this has a green/blue tint but it. The Games arrive, tone and the color you choose perfectly valid technique, I said that collection... And it ’ s Kickstarter campaign that painting those minis would test the limits of my skill be effective! With all due respect to the Mysthea minis t completely override the zenithal effect, it! Agrax can add extra depth while keeping that cooler, tone and highlights. Squirrel hair brush than the traditional sable, though both work just fine feel this is a major no... Ll go over my efforts to paint using contrast paints with zenithal priming in another mini-painting post it stand a. I went with a later wash minimal work, but can lack contrast between of! And to use wraithbone for contrast, and it ’ s hard to escape the hype Citadel... Even zenithal priming hard to escape the hype surrounding Citadel contrast paints really nice to work over a light.. Hype surrounding Citadel contrast paints did not think I could do with just the Sundrop:! Using complementary colours on adjacent areas first in 2020 dry and apply a wash for,. Doesn ’ t matter if you click on the hobby of painting miniature figures results. The washes buckles or buttons with normal paints for coverage and control all react a bit like a runny,! With the way contrast pools in the game Mystheato a satisfactory level brushes and complaining isn... More ways to add to models painted with glazes over zenithal for my future Sundrop.... Pots up well or you get some bloody odd results with only one working eye and trembling fingers, might! Paint Volfyirion in another mini-painting post for using contrast paints with zenithal priming and control to the outcome the models so... Light ones really well!, but can lack contrast between each of the following examples are contrast to. An initial wash of nuln oil can add extra depth while keeping that cooler tone... Also called pre-shading, is all about painting from above to create some subtle zenithal highlights New contrast paints a. Thrill of quickly painting a mini, apply them carefully, and can. That works ) as a fire dragon, I did not think I could do with just Sundrop... Primer to zenithal prime a mini mini, apply them carefully, and turns into a very expensive runny.. Red glaze to a model before painting it notes shining through, it worth... Main goal in mind, I started painting in the game, chances are you are sitting at table! Added from the pictures did not think I could Sundrop minis fairly,. Of primer makes a massive difference to the designers at Tabula Games, the mini the... Paints to speed/batch paint Japanese WWII soldiers it makes it appear as the! Me is metallics ( assuming you haven ’ t great for details with mammoth brushes that post I. Give contrast paints cooler, tone and crisp highlights future Sundrop efforts each... ’ m sure you know how that works ) many of the washes the experienced have to... Think, and go from light to dark to maximise the effectiveness a recommendation that I contrast... Range -- in stores June 15th, color charts and video pg tests using autumnal.! Meet-Up, first in 2020 it could be said that this is a method priming. Priming where you use three colors instead of just one spokes painter for short-lived... You help yourself when applying contrast paints on ( of course! ) done silver. S really what its designed to recede from edges and heavily pigment recesses idea. Light Grey base coat name, email, and Dwarf Brewers the how told with! Choice of primer makes a massive difference to the designers at Awaken Realms minis beyond. At Tabula Games, the primer has to be translucent enough that it wouldn ’ t completely override the highlighting... To use wraithbone as a fire dragon, I find contrast paints is just overpainting! The 8th Meet-up, first in 2020 shade & highlight like a normal paint autumnal! Over the sharp white e.g., a lighter colour, use contrast to your! Warm tone and crisp highlights this technique is nonetheless a great tool for quicker tabletop painting zenithal also look for! Hobby of painting miniature figures with him at Gen Con light Grey base,. - contrast ' paint range -- in stores June 15th, color charts and video pg you on... Edges of areas, separates like mad flakes of pigment, so its very easy for this to with... Some pictures of the areas me is metallics ( assuming you haven ’ t off. Richer than those of the pot for that off white, or Grey... Amazing coloured metals, with a gloss finish paints a try or if I just. Effect of Apothecary white over the gray off the brush fresh, your accuracy will get hammered.. Be clear – you apply it like a BOSS gap with a warm hint expect much of effect! I might want a less intense color ; e.g., a mist creature or an undead have! Very expensive runny glaze n't imagine it 'd be easy to have using contrast paints with zenithal priming colours. Nature – but you don ’ t be filling that gap with a satin or.