Using a piece of foam dabbed in black paint and wiped off stipple some pitting on the armour panels of your vehicles. I’ve been painting miniatures on the regular for a few years now, and I know enough to say that I still have a lot to learn. Each successive highlight concentrates more towards the front and top of the model until finally your applying the final highlight just to … Winter is coming, and for anyone who paints miniatures (or gunpla, or other kinds of models) that means one thing: You had better have all your priming done to get you by for the next few months. Learn how your comment data is processed. I’m interested to find out who’s had any luck with spray/rattle can zenith highlights with Blood Angels? If you want to do zenithal and don't own an airbrush I'd recommend priming black and then drybrushing white with exclusively downward strokes. Saxon Dog's Technique (blocking colors, washes, and highlights over a dark washed, white primer; Most of the video's I've seen on YouTube lately have started from a zenithal prime and then used inks, glazes, or "contrasts" paints to build up from there. That’s just one reason why many people opt for using an airbrush. For this you should use a synthetic brush (round, size 0-ish) as the oilpaint and artist's spririt will ruin your nice sable hair brushes. You might not want to cover nearly as much of the model, as you normally would with a zenithal highlight. Here is my first attempt at zenithal priming with auto store rattle cans (that's what I had): I see what people mean about the auto primer nozzles: the fan shape makes the spray tough to control. Make sure only to hit the top surface of your model. Before finally spraying white from above and straight from the sword on to model. In this first article I will cover how you can zenithal highlight blue miniatures. One of the things I came across was the use of zenithal highlights (some might refer to it as an undercoat). This technique is used to brighten the highlights on your mini, while at the same time darkening the shadows. I, as most others, started out (late 90's in my case) priming my models with spray cans and using spray can varnish at the end of the paint job. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality. Here is my first attempt at zenithal priming with auto store rattle cans (that's what I had Especially in northern climates like here in […] You don’t want this to cover the whole model, only the surface area the paint can get to at that angle. Zenithal Priming is a method of priming where you use three colors instead of just one. Like if you notice the shoulder pads get pretty dark even though a zenithal would leave them pretty bright. Winter is coming, and for anyone who paints miniatures (or gunpla, or other kinds of models) that means one thing: You had better have all your priming done to get you by for the next few months. Community Forum Software by IP.BoardLicensed to: David Johnston (Brother Argos) and the Bolter and Chainsword, This is not recommended for shared computers, battle captain corpus and Charlo like this. 31% said "I've never tried zenithal painting" 25% said "I don't use zenithal painting" 20% said "I don't understand what zenithal painting is" John the OFM : 03 Dec 2020 1:52 p.m. PST: I never heard if it. You can even combine the two methods og using this technique. abelp01: 03 Dec 2020 1:56 p.m. PST: I've used the method with rattle cans and airbrush, it works better with the airbrush, more control, IMHO. This will allow for the pin wash to flow very nicely. Make sure not to make the primer go on to think, that might cover up details on the model. Speed and efficiency was the name of the game (as always). Please welcome zenithal priming, one of the most efficient ways to improve your skills in miniatures painting. Winter is coming, and for anyone who paints miniatures (or gunpla, or other kinds of models) that means one thing: You had better have all your priming done In my opinion this is a good base to start from to get a general highlight onto the miniature before you start working on details. Edited by battle captain corpus, 14 August 2019 - 10:28 AM. For British gas cans, I use exactly the same process as the vehicles themselves, only in miniature: base coat, stipple, highlight. I don't consider myself an expert by any stretch of the imagination, but hope to share what I know about the topic with those folks in the same boat as me. 1000 Scout list W:0 D:0 L:0 But it is possible to achieve a similar effect. Apply a thin coat of red all over the miniature, it's important that the coat is thin so that this red coat allows for the black preshading show the shading and white on the highlight areas show red, this is the hard part, probably you will have to practice before hand and train yourself with the spray can trigger to spray thinly and even. Especially in … Required fields are marked *. I’ve put a lot of energy into studying — how to apply a primer with a rattle can, how to block in colors, and how to get those nice, crispy edge highlights. 1850 Death Company List (mech) W:0 D:0 L:0 Your email address will not be published. The process is simple and pretty straight forward. 6th zenithal highlight - Vallejo ivory Note - The first zenithal highlight was applied per the whole model except the underneath. Prime the whole model black. It is what it is. 25% said "I don't use zenithal painting" 20% said "I don't understand what zenithal painting is" John the OFM : 03 Dec 2020 1:52 p.m. PST: I never heard if it. - posted in + GENERAL PCA QUESTIONS +: After doing some tests with citadel contrast paints over metal base coats I want to try two different metal colors over a black primer as a base for my heresy era thousand sons. And it works very effectively. Edited by Imren, 14 August 2019 - 11:02 AM. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Straight from above, spray the model with the white paint. Glazing uses the pre-shade to keep the shadows and highlights we have already placed on the model. This process starts with a zenithal prime. The award winning painters typically suggest airbrushing primer, over any rattle can. You can even combine the two methods og using this technique. I’ve been painting miniatures on the regular for a few years now, and I know enough to say that I still have a lot to learn. 1250 Death Company List (jump) W:0 D:0 L:0 Make sure to let the primer fully cure before painting the model. That helped me to get the highlights and shadows on the skin, and still make the OSL look bright. Cans of spray paint don’t work very well in the cold. I started with using PVA and sand to give the bases some texture before using a rattle can and zenithal highlights to establish the overall colors. This is the paints and primers you need to do this: This step is your usual priming step. That is what I did in my Fire Giant from Blood Rage. My personal preference for painting over a Zenithal highlight is to use a layering or glazing technique to achieve a smooth finish. Today I checked out the P3 … Read more Re(a)dy or not, here I come. You can use an aerosol primer but I get more consistent results from an airbrush. I usually just use the citadel rattle cans. But still make sure you get full coverage, otherwise your paints might not stick to the model, once you start painting it. Gloss varnish. This technique can also be used to increase the contrast of your OSL (object source light). Weather can be an issue if you’re using a rattle can, but it’s not a huge deal. This is a general statement, and I found it to be the case when I primed Storm Troopers with my Rustoleum rattle cans. Zenithal highlighting on models can be a huge and somewhat complex topic and it's with some reservation that I'm posting this whole "tutorial." Just be aware if you’re out in freezing cold or crazy humidity, your results might be crappy. If you prime the model black. The result is just as good as you'd get with rattle cans (if you know how to drybrush properly anyway) and you don't have to deal with finniky white spray primer. Blogs Blood Angels | Veritas Vitae | Battle Reports | Terrain | IXth Legion | Miscellaneous Imperials As always, we start by priming the miniature. I use a two step priming process of a base of grey, then a white “zenithal” highlight from the top and 45* around the sides. For this I used pro acryl dark blue gray as the base coat but then I went in with Reaper void Blue which is a beautiful dark deep blue for the shadows. Especially in northern climates like here in Illinois, that can be a serious problem for hobbyists. battle captain corpus and ixzion like this. Several functions may not work. I’m quite a proficient painter and have been hobbying since the dark ages (89’) so I’m confident trying my hand to most things. White tends to look chalky. Hold the can about 5-7″ away from the mini. The two shades of red will give a nice 3D-effect on the scratches. 1500 Light Mech List W:0 D:0 L:2 Dreadnought List W:2 D:0 L:1 Zenithal spray highlighting: advice & guidance please! You can use spraypaint (referred to as "rattle can" by miniatures painters) to not only prime your figures, but to also base color, AND highlight them. 2000 Heavy Mech List W:0 D:0 L:1 Two Towers List W:0 D:0 L:0 Use a dark brown (van Dyke brown or burnt umber) oil paint diluted in artist's spirit (oil paint thinner) and do a pin wash in the recesses, wait an hour and clean up the pooling with a brush dampened with spirits. youtube have good tutorials on how to use these decal fixers). You apply black, grey, and white primers in a way that creates a gradient effect adding depth and shading to your base coat. Apply decals on the gloss surface (use Micro Sol and Micro Set for best results. paint the details (armour joints, metal trims, eye lenses etc). Cans of spray paint don’t work very well in the cold. Winter is coming, and for anyone who paints miniatures (or gunpla, or other kinds of models) that means one thing: You had better have all your priming done to get you by for the next few months. If you have an airbrush, you can also play with tinted zenithals. Finally, if I want to depict a water can, I paint on the obligatory white cross. Apocalypse W:1 D:0 L:0 | Heresy 2500 Mechanised IXth W:2 D:1 L:0. Nice highlights without effort? Your email address will not be published. Tutorial – This is how I do zenithal highlights, Tutorial – Using bark as rock formation on terrain pieces, The Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles – Part 2 – Newspapers, The Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles – Part 1, A black primer (I use Vallejo’s Black Surface Primer), A light gray paint (I use Vallejo’s Model Air Light Gray), A white paint (I use Vallejo’s Game Air Dead White), An airbrush (similar results can be achieved with spray cans, it is just a lot easier with an airbrush). For the German cans, I paint them a base coat of Vallejo Dark Gray, then highlight with Vallejo Neutral Gray. Then at a 45 degree angle, relative to the light source, spray the light gray. When I first started out in this hobby, I did as everybody else does, look at videos on Youtube. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Zenithal priming uses a gradient of grays to mimic the sun at mid day. Especially in northern climates like here in Illinois, that can be a serious problem for hobbyists. - posted in + BLOOD ANGELS +: Hello you lovely folks! At the TGMPStudio blog you can find Kickstarter tabletop game news, tutorials, process photos from different projects and other stuff that I think you might like. Generally you will use just three colors, black, gray, and white. Yesterday I had some great fun with the blue paints (you can find that here). Two blog posts in two days is a first for a while but it’s a public holiday here so I’ve had some extra time with my new P3 paints and my SCE Underworld’s Warband. Using the base red colour you sprayed with (perhaps Mephiston red will work if you use Halfords red spray can) and a lighter red (Wild rider red or Evil sunz) do small scratches on the armour, focus on lower legs, arms and the knees. No airbrush, so i have to stick to rattle cans. You then lightly apply your base colours over your primer to very quickly add a ton of natural shading and highlights. Assuming you're completely "allergic" to airbrushing, and insist on spraycans, this is what I'd try out if I were you, but try it out it on a test mini first. I saw this in one of Sorastros amazing videos, so he needs a lot of credit for teaching me this technique. You might not want to cover nearly as much of the model, as you normally would with a zenithal highlight. Cans of spray paint don’t work very well in the cold. You currently have javascript disabled. It can all be done with different coloured spray cans, but it is a bit harder to control the bursts from a spray can. It is possible you have seen me use this in my painting a zombie step-by-step article. This will become your brightest highlights. Cans of spray paint don’t work very well in the cold. First I attach the models to my trusty-crusty piece of ancient cardboard with poster putty, then I prime with Army Painter Uniform Grey (from a rattle can). The light gray will help to make the transition from black white much smoother. The first thing to know is that this technique requires a spray primer. You can even get a pseudo-zenithal by dry brushing the lighter colour on with a large makeup brush and focusing on where the light will hit the miniature. 1750 Hybrid List W:0 D:0 L:0 Vallejo Spray Cans for zenithal highlight (tests!) this suggestion is based on my way of painting base colours on marines (but I do it with airbrush): Up to this point my suggestion is what you asked for, the following is what I suggest you do for a further nice paintjob (my hobby-itch side of me couldn't stop here with the advice): Now you have a fair chance to bring home some paint-job prices when doing tournaments! Cans of spray paint don’t work very well in the cold. But when doing armies (especially space marines) both money-wise and time-wise I find that is a better/more effective option to get into airbrushing. Airbrush or rattle can; doesn’t matter. Lock in the miniature with a satin or matt varnish. I use rustoleum flat black and flat white to prime, and never had problem when I … That’s just one reason why many people opt for using an airbrush. That is what I did in my Fire Giant from Blood Rage. First I primed the model all black, then at a 45 degree angle sprayed on the light gray, and adding a bit more from the direction of the sword. Especially in … Depending on how intense or spread out you want your OSL. At a 45-60 degree angle, spray the model with the light gray paint. It was a great eye opener for me and I could churn out paint jobs (especially space marines) that would have taken ages with paintbrush to do to the same paint job quality level. 15. I had to hold the can sideways for the zenithal white coat. There you have it, it is that easy. So I suggest you look into airbrushing and save yourself the expense of GW cans and the whims of outdoor weather conditions. And then white straight on from the lightsource, it helps you increase the constrast of your OSL. 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